25th September 2013

Marni, Marni, Marni! A Review by the Candy Perfume Boy

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Re-Branded Signature (Thomas) copy

The fragrance world is all a flutter with the excitement of a new and intriguing perfume. The word being whispered from perfume lover to perfume love is ‘Marni’, a moniker usually associated with the quirky, cutesy Italian fashions by Conseulo Castiglioni, but now belonging to the wild world of perfume.

Fashion houses have long been releasing perfumes, many of which have made their way into the history books as the great classics of perfumery, so in a way Marni’s debut release isn’t ground breaking, but it is rather special. “Why”, you may ask? Well Marni Eau de Parfum is a perfect example of the designer fragrance done right, where accessibility and artistic integrity meet in perfect harmony.

To create the first Marni fragrance Castiglioni hired the talents of super-perfumer Daniela Andrier. Andrier, if you are unfamiliar with her work, is the nose behind such venerable perfumes as Prada’s Candy & Infusion d’Iris (and Absolue version) and Maison Martin Margiela’s Untitled. With her capable hands, Andrier has crafted the spirit of the Marni brand into an immensely wearable and enjoyable perfume.

 

The Notes

Top: Bergamot, Pepper, Ginger and Pink Peppercorn
Heart: Cardamom, Rose and Cinnamon Bark
Base: Patchouli, Incense, Vetiver and Cedar Wood

Marni Fragrance Collection

How Does it Smell?

One’s first impression upon spritzing Marni Eau de Parfum is of a dewy and mouth-watering bouquet of roses accented by crisp citrus notes. Apple and bergamot amp up the juiciness of the rose whilst black pepper adds a satisfying dose of sparkling, and crackling spice. Everything about the opening speaks of fun, right from the measured dose of orchard fruits to the omnipresent glitter of spices.

The rose has a free-spirited and transparent air to it but on the whole it is a fully fleshed out bunch of red rose buds with a wonderful range of tart, jammy nuances. Patchouli serves as the main contrast, pulling out the rose’s darker spirit – its thorns and rich green stems, whilst also increasing the overall feel of bubbling effervescence.

In the dry down Marni Eau de Parfum becomes much drier thanks to a surprisingly masculine blend of ice-cold incense. A cool wave of soft, mineral-filled earth dusted with the rich spice of cinnamon and delicate human warmth of cedar wood makes for a smooth finish that nicely grounds Marni’s more frivolous and care free tendencies.

 

The Verdict

As far as designer fragrances go Marni Eau de Parfum is pretty damn good and is most definitely one of 2013’s best launches so far. It comfortably straddles the lines between masculine and feminine, young and old, dolled up and dressed down, making for a remarkably versatile fragrance.

Covered in irresistible polka dots the Marni fragrance line consists of an Eau de Parfum available in 30ml, 65ml and 120ml in addition to matching body products. With Escentual’s 20% off all fragrance sale (excluding Amouage, Discovery Sets and Postage) this is a great opportunity to grab one of this year’s cult favourite perfumes at a rather spiffy price!

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  • Alityke

    How does this compare to Cabaret, SJP Lovely and Idylle Duet? The top and mid read like the latter two and the dry down the former