Guerlain has a prestigious heritage of expertly crafted compositions. The dynastic fragrance house has been served y four generations of Guerlain in its time, producing a portfolio of iconic scents that dates back almost 200 years. In a break from family tradition, the latest perfumer is Thierry Wasser, who has a directional approach to fragrance. Fusing modern perfumery trends with the time-honoured sensibilities of Guerlain’s heritage, like the Guerlinade, Wasser’s tenure has resulted in such scents as Idylle, Homme and, most recently, La Petite Robe Noire.
Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Eau de Parfum
Composed of cherry, liquorice, almond, rose, and patchouli and tea leaves in the base, Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Eau de Parfum is a mischievous confection with dark undertones. The opening is all about cherry laced with almond, deepened with a touch of liquorice. The projection of this scent is enormous; just a spray or two will do. In the heart a voluptuous pairing of Bulgarian and Turkish rose is introduced, smoothing out the sharp bite of cherry and making it less dominant. As La Petite Robe Noire bows out, the languid sensuality of black lapsang tea leaves and patchouli leave a smoky, dark imprint on the skin.
I adore this fragrance. It is quite unlike anything else I own, and includes many of my favourite notes, including almond and tea. As well as its substantial projection, the longevity of the scent is most impressive. I get a good 10 or so hours of wear from the La Petite Robe Noire Eau de Parfum, and even longer if I layer it with the body lotion.
When considering La Petite Robe Noire in the context of Guerlain’s fragrance portfolio, the cherry-liquorice confection seems like a bold move. There is no denying that if you’re a fan of fruity-floral or gourmand scents, La Petite Robe Noire is among the cream of the crop. It’s sweet, but it is undoubtedly a fragrance of balance and precision – I’m a big fan.
Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Eau de Toilette
Following the success of the Eau de Parfum, Guerlain have recently introduced the Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Eau de Toilette, a lighter fragrance that is actually very different from its sister scent. This version is all about lighter and more sparkling notes, more akin to a classic fruity-floral.
Floral tones in the top notes are the most marked difference from the Eau de Parfum. The combination of rose, jasmine and orange blossom are sweet and feminine, and are brightened with cherry rather than led by it. Though cherry is still a main note, the fruit is accompanied by crisp apple and juicy blackcurrant, which significantly tone down its sharpness. The eau de toilette is a delectable springtime fruity scent accented with crisp green notes, and supported by a skin-like base of white amber and musk. Though La Petite Robe Noire by name and nature, it is a fragrance all of its own.
Although I like the Eau de Toilette, the Eau de Parfum holds such a special place in my heart that it cannot really compare. Though this isn’t my favourite of the two, it is a wonderful alternative for those who found last year’s release to be a little ‘too much’. It’s an ideal scent for this time of year; uplifting, feminine and playful, with medium projection and great longevity for an eau de toilette (I get about 8 hours of wear). If you have the chance to sample both scents, I highly recommend comparing the two!